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Tidewater Restaurant Critics, Carrollton, VA (2026)

Each month we visit and review a different restaurant in Hampton Roads, Virginia.

08/30/2021

Review of Crab Shack on the James, by Ron Peterson Jr.

One definition of crazy is doing the same thing and expecting a different result. This past Tuesday, the Tidewater Restaurant Critics returned to a restaurant we visited a few years ago, Crab Shack on the James, in Newport News. The result was the same -- disappointment. Call us crazy.

One of the reasons we went back to Crab Shack after our two-year hiatus is because it’s a place that has a ton of potential. The name is a misnomer, it’s not a shack, but a great waterfront venue located at the foot of the James River Bridge, out on a fishing pier which was the old bridge span, with a million-dollar view. Over the years, it always seems to be a restaurant just on the verge of putting it all together. In a business built on reputation, the Crab Shack’s is well-defined. On some visits the food is good and the service bad; other nights, vice versa. What keeps people coming back is the view and atmosphere. It’s on a beautiful stretch of river, there are always boats to watch, and the sunsets over the water are among the best in Hampton Roads.

This particular visit started on a great note. Our party of six was seated promptly at a comfortable table with a great view out the floor-ceiling-windows on the westerly side of the dining area. Our drinks came to the table quickly, and yes, the beer was cold. This place was checking all the boxes.

I should point out that we’re well aware of the service problems faced by restaurant owners during this lingering pandemic. It’s hard to get good help and staffing issues have become the norm. But that did not appear to be a problem here. Our server did an excellent job the entire night, which indicates that the Crab Shack’s ownership/management is going the extra mile to assure good service.

The menu at Crab Shack offers anything and everything a seafood lover could want. Appetizers range from Oysters Rockefeller, Calamari, Shrimp Jammers, Crab Dip, Clam Chowder and She Crab Soup. Entrees include Yellow Fin Tuna, Fried Shrimp, Oysters, Scallops, Shrimp and a fried Seafood Platter. Sandwiches range from Crabcake, Fried Flounder, Tuna salad; as well as burgers and chicken for landlubbers. And for shellfish purists, the raw bar here offers steamed shrimp, as well as Oysters and Clams, on the half shell or steamed.

For an appetizer, we had a couple orders of Stuffed Mushrooms, which were baked just right and stuffed with lump crabmeat. They were very good. As we enjoyed our drinks and appetizers, our group of critics enjoyed our usual banter. We’re all veterans – of the baseball wars, that is – and the old stories from the high school and college ballfields get better over time.

A second round of drinks came quickly, as did our entrees. Blair Wood had the Salmon Steak Sandwich, which he opted to have blackened. Salmon is easy to overcook, but he said his was just right, and that the blackened seasoning gave it a nice kick. It was served with fries; Blair apparently liked them because he didn’t leave any on his plate. He got a Clean Plate Club sticker from the teacher.

Damarris Yuille, who is from Roanoke and thinks mountain oysters are seafood, continued his habit of ordering the most expensive thing on the menu and had the Flounder Stuffed with Backfin Crabmeat. $27.95, but who’s counting. He gave it high marks, describing it as light and delicate.

For my entrée, I had the Oyster Dinner. On the MLB 20-to-80 scouting scale (20 being Albert Pujols speed and 80 being Aaron Judge’s power), I gave them a solid 50. Major league average. The oysters were fresh and according to our server, local. They were lightly fried, sort of a calabash style. As for my baked potato, it was obvious that it spent couple hours on the warming rack.

Steve went with the Steamed Shrimp, which he said was “pretty good” and had plenty of Old Bay Seasoning, a pre-req for shrimp in these parts.

Mark Bunn and Mark Parnell each had the Crabcake Platter, and that's is where this review goes off the rails. A restaurant that calls itself Crab Shack should have good crabcakes, right? Well, not here. The crabcakes were loaded with filler – breading, cracker crumbs, and minced celery, among other things. Mark & Mark were both very disappointed. We’re no culinary geniuses, but isn’t the cardinal rule of making crabcakes to use as little filler as possible?

We concluded our meal with the house’s specialty dessert, Key Lime Pie, which was outstanding. But it was too little, too late, as we left the restaurant still shaking our heads about what was overall a very mediocre dining experience. And how can a restaurant called the Crab Shack have such bad crabcakes?

06/01/2021

Review of Fuller's Raw Bar by Ron Peterson Jr.

The Tidewater Restaurant Critics recently visited Fuller’s Raw Bar in Phoebus, a very good new restaurant with a very bad old name. Long-time Peninsula residents probably remember the old Fuller’s with their “Eat Dirt Cheap” slogan, a historic establishment that opened in 1901 and closed in 1993. For most of those 92 years the city’s health inspector was on the payroll.

The new Fuller’s Raw Bar is similar in name only, thank God, a homage to the nostalgic name by the new owners. For seafood lovers, it is a great addition to the Phoebus restaurant scene, which if you haven’t noticed, is pretty happening these days. We visited Fuller’s Raw Bar on a recent Tuesday night and it checked all the boxes: awesome seafood, a great beer selection and good service.

The main dining room — a colorfully decorated, casual open space with an Outer Banks vibe — was full, so we took a table outside on the back patio. Our server recommended a beer called Narragansett Lager, the flagship beer from a great New England brewery, which she said paired well with seafood. Someone in our group did a quick google search and learned that back in the 1950’s, Narraganset sponsored the Boston Red Sox and was Ted Williams favorite beer. Good enough for Mr .400, good enough for us, so a few of us ordered one and loved it.

It was $1 oyster night — Buck a Shuck — so we ordered a few dozen, both raw & steamed, for an appetizer. They were Laughing King oysters from the Eastern Shore, which I found to have a sweet taste, good texture, with a nice briny finish. Mark Bunn said he liked them because they put lead in his pencil. I’d never heard that expression before and was scared to ask what it meant.

We pondered the menu, which included some great items on the specials board: Scallop Casserole and Lump Crab Lo Mein. As we waited for our entrees to arrive, Blair Wood shared a story about the old Fuller’s. Back in the ‘80s a group of baseball umpires (Mick Mikula was one of ‘em) were working a tournament at the Phoebus Pony League field and went to the old Fuller’s for a pizza. When the pizza arrived at their table, some of the toppings were moving. Crawling, to be exact. (Again, this was 40 years ago at the old Fuller’s, so let’s forget he said that.)

Our entrees came and we were not disappointed. I had the Fried Oyster Dinner, a heaping portion of those Laughing Kings, fried in a light batter with coleslaw & fries. It was very good.

Blair Wood went with the Blackened Fish Tacos, a trio of blackened fish, with black bean salsa, sour cream, cilantro & lime. He thought the fish was talapia or maybe cod, but then admiited he doesn’t know Skrimp from Chik’n.

Mark Parnell had the Shrimp Po Boy, accompanied by a Caesar Salad. He gave it high marks.

Mark Bunn had the Fish Sandwich, which was a fried Haddock, a go-to fish for British Style fish & chips. He found it to be excellent, surpisingly light, like all the fried dishes here.

big-leagued us and ordered the priciest entree on the menu, the Steamed Sampler Platter at $36. It was a huge dish, with snow crab clusters, six clams, six ousters, a half-pound of mussels and a half-pound of steamed shrimp. He tried to doggy-bag the half he didn’t eat, but the rest of us said, “Don’t be shellfish” and devoured what was left. We all thought it was all delicious.

Bryan Randolph Wood ordered the Chili Dog, because he got his seafood fix from the oyster appetizers. We joked him, but the joke was on us, because he said it the Chili Dog was excellent.

We passed on dessert, probably due to the generous dinner portions. The consensus from our group was that Fuller’s Raw Bar is an outstanding spot for good seafood and cold beer, with a fun, casual atmosphere.

02/09/2021

Review of Second Street American Bistro
Ron Peterson Jr.

The Tidewater Restaurant Critics recently dined at Second Street American Bistro Newport News. If you like upscale American comfort food with a contemporary spin, the food here checks all the boxes. The décor and atmosphere? More about that in a moment.

Most Peninsula natives are familiar with the Second Street name, as the flagship location in Williamsburg has been around for over three decades. The Newport News location is at the Kiln Creek Shopping Center on Victory Boulevard. If you know your local restaurant trivia, it’s the old site of the very forgettable Spaghetti Warehouse, a bad restaurant with an even worse name.

For many years, Second Street was best known for good, but not great, pub fare. In 2007, the owners apparently grew tired of serving burgers, chicken wings, and fries, and gave both locations an extreme makeover. With a major remodel and culinary upgrade, Second Street was re-branded as a high-end modern American bistro.

The Second Street restaurants are owned by the Chohany brothers, John and Mickey, two guys who got their start in the biz bussing tables and waitering at the taverns of Colonial Williamsburg back in the 70s. As the often-told story goes, in the mid-80s, their father, a prominent doctor in the ‘Burg, bought them the Williamsburg Second Street location from PGA golfer Curtis Strange, writing up the terms of the deal on a cocktail napkin with Strange over drinks in the bar.

Speaking of strange in the bar, our group of critics showed up on a Tuesday night hoping to have a drink before dinner, only to realize that the bar was not serving, due to the pandemic. Tells you how often we get out these days. We had reservations for six at six, but only five of us were there at 5:55. The hostess said she wouldn’t seat us until we were all present, due to the pandemic. Of course. We waited and finally, the sixth member of our party, parking lot drinker Frank Brnich, joined us, and we were finally seated in a booth.

Actually, we are not complaining about Second Street’s Covid 19 protocol, because it’s obvious they’re doing a great job keeping staff and guests healthy. The staff are all wearing masks correctly (i.e. covering their noses), seating is kept at half capacity, tables are safely distanced, and menus are single-use.

First impressions are everything, and our server made a great one. Within fifteen seconds of our being seated, he greeted us and shared his knowledge of the drink menu. Wine is the star here, as it turns out the restaurant's owners are partners in a Napa winery called Aratas that specializes in a rare red grape variety called Petite Sara. Which Stephen Noffsinger pointed out was a coincidence because his last girlfriend was named Sara and she was petite. Or so he said.

Steve had a Cabernet, opting for the 2017 Dante which he said was full-bodied and bright with layers of complex flavor. Some wines improve with age; Steve improves with wine. Tim had a gin and tonic which he said was perfect.

There were eight craft beers on tap and I opted for one of my favorites, a Free Verse IPA, the headliner from The Virginia Beer Company in Williamsburg. It’s a beer that has a special place in my heart; I won ‘Father of The Year’ for buying a keg of it for my son’s William & Mary graduation party a few years ago. My Free Verse, as usual, had a wonderful aroma – I buried my nose in the foam like Al Pacino did that pile of co***ne in Scarface -- with a wonderful smell of citrus and pine. The hop profile was excellent, a hint of tart lemon and … maybe orange peel (?), with nice notes of barley and malt and a well-balanced mouthfeel and a pleasantly bitter, hoppy aftertaste.

Meanwhile, Mark Bunn who has a tenth-degree black belt in Budweiser, ordered his usual Bud and said it was great. “Real cold,” he said.

So, about Second Street’s interior renovation. There’s no doubt an interior designer was well compensated for the reno, but it came across to me as a bit of a hotel lounge vibe. Not Hilton or Marriott, but more like the tacky new contemporary chains like Aloft and Tru, that target millennials. Instead of a warm, cozy ambiance, the atmosphere seemed a bit aloof. And sterile. But enough about our recent medical procedures, let’s get to the food.

The menu was loaded with great choices. We ordered, and as we waited we enjoyed our group’s usual banter. As I’ve mentioned in past reviews, we all grew up on the Peninsula and are veterans. Of the baseball wars, that is. We played against and/or with each other in high school and college and the best part of our get-togethers are the tales from the ballfields that inevitably come up.

I reminded Mark Parnell – who pitched professionally in the Royals organization and had 28 saves one year in the minors – about the time he hit me in the ribs with a pitch and how I couldn’t take a deep breath for a week. When I joked that he hit me on purpose, he laughed and said, “Why in the world would I have tried to hit you … I would’ve wanted to make sure you stayed in the lineup because you were such an easy out.” Said he would’ve sent a limo for me to make sure I made it to the game.

Then, Tim Blowe told a story about the time after college that he played in the Jewish Men’s National Championship Softball Tournament, in Richmond. He said his team won eight straight games to make it to the finals; but then in the last inning of the championship game, a ground ball went through his legs, the other team scored the winning run and his team lost. Things went from bad to worse for him after the game, when his teammates found out Tim was actually a gentile (he’s Baptist) and had lied about being Jewish because he wanted to play in the tournament. He almost had to walk home from Richmond.

Back to the important stuff. We ordered a couple of Second Street’s signature appetizer, the Thai Poppin’ Shrimp. Each order was a generous portion; nine shrimp if you’re at home scoring – or even if you’re by yourself. The shrimp were breaded in panko, a bread crumb originally from Japan that fries up incredibly crispy. The panko-coated shrimp were flash-fried; then tossed in a sweet and spicy Thai chili aioli and garnished with chives. Very light. Outstanding. Certainly better than that chain restaurant’s Bang Bang Shrimp.

Our entrees arrived in no time and passed the first test – they looked incredible. Nice aesthetics that made us want to take pictures. So we did (see below). Blair Wood had the Grilled Salmon. He faux-pas’ed when he ordered it and pronounced the “L”, calling it Sal-mun. I think it’s because Blair works for a restaurant chain that has a phonetic spelling … you know the one. Blair's salmon was farm-raised, lightly seasoned with lemon, garlic & pepper, charred in a Tomato-Saffron Cream Sauce, served over a citrus herb basmati rice. Blair found it to be excellent. The cream sauce’s saffron – one of the world’s most expensive spices – had a subtle earthy/floral taste, but by no means overpowered the star of the show, the salmon.

Mark Parnell opted for the Crabcake Sandwich and was disappointed. He said it was junior varsity. The crabcake had “too much filler” -- which has to be the number one complaint when someone doesn’t like their crabcake, right? And Nellie did not like the fact that his bun was branded with the Second Street logo … said it reminded him too much of those Omega fraternity guys in college who had that Greek letter branded on their arms.

When Mark Bunn’s Grilled Bison Meatloaf arrived at the table, he greeted it with, “Hey Bison, don’t let your Meat Loaf.” Everyone laughed except the Bison. Like any good son, Mark prefaced his critique with, “It’s tough to beat mom’s meatloaf,” but said that this one was outstanding. As for being composed of bison rather than beef, Mark said that compared to traditional meatloaf, it had a more delicate flavor and was sweeter. The fact that it was grilled, not baked, gave it a subtle smokey flavor that added to the wonderful complexity of flavor in the dish.

Tim had the Seafood Bake, served in a cast iron skillet filled with Cajun Fried Shrimp, Chesapeake Blue Crab, Andouille Sausage, Saffron Tomato Cream and Citrus Herb Basmati Rice. Tim is typically our toughest critic and no matter how much he likes a dish, can find something to nitpick. That trend continued as he said the shrimp and crab in the dish were delicious, but he did not like the overall texture of the dish. He said it was “a bit too runny."

I ordered the penultimate southern dish -- Shrimp & Grits. Seems like each restaurant has their own take on this classic; Second Street’s was outstanding and very unique. The shrimp were served in a house-made beer broth, along with andouille sausage, peppers, tomatoes and scallions, over stone-ground cheese grits. According to our server, the grits – possibly the best I’ve ever had – were set up the night before on a sheet pan and then breaded and deep-fried to order. The grits had a perfect consistency, crispy on the outside, and gooey inside. The shrimp, which were sauteed, and the andouille, which seemed to be grilled, each had their own flavor profile, which gave the dish a lot of depth.

Frank went with the Carolina Pork Ribeye, another great southern dish. It was a grilled pork ribeye, wrapped in bacon, served with pimento cheese mashed potatoes, cider and bacon braised collards and cinnamon-stewed pears. He loved the pork ribeye, commenting that it was tender and grilled to perfection, and also raved about the pimento cheese mashed potatoes.

Steve opted for one of Second Street’s grilled pizzas, of which there are four different choices on the menu. There is a Three-cheese Mushroom, a Chicken Bacon Ranch, and a Roasted Garlic & Goat Cheese. The one Steve chose was called Growing Up Gotti, a thin-crusted pizza, covered in parmesan and jack cheeses and topped with pepperoni, salami and giardiniera. Giardiniera is an Italian relish made of pickled vegetables in a vinegar/oil base. Steve said the thin crust was a bit on the bland side, which is typical of new-school pizzas, which tend to put the emphasis on the toppings, not the crust. All in all he said it was “incredibly good,” but keep in mind he’s like Mikey of the old Life Cereal commercials – he’ll eat anything.

We were too full for dessert – which speaks to the generous portions of the entrees – but our server strongly recommended the Carrot Cake and we obliged. After ordering it, we realized that none of us like carrot cake. But when it arrived and we all tried it, we had to agree; it was incredible. Better than any carrot cake we’ve had before. A zingy blend of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, toasted pecans and of course, carrots. The cream cheese frosting was above and beyond any cake frosting I’d had. Made us wish we’d tried one of several other desserts, which included Pear Caramel Bread Pudding and Chocolate Torte.

To summarize our evening, Second Street has definitely earned a spot in the niche of upscale restaurants in Hampton Roads. The menu is packed with unique culinary twists and the service is outstanding. They’ve done an excellent job adapting to the challenging climate of the current pandemic. If you’re looking for a night of upscale dining this Valentine’s Day, Second Street American Bistro should be on your short list.

10/06/2020

Review of Smithfield Station
By Ron Peterson Jr.

It's puzzling that a major coastal region like Hampton Roads does not have more restaurants that combine great local seafood with a beautiful waterfront dining view. While several restaurants claim to fill this niche, most of them underachieve. But drive up or down the coast for an hour or so and you'll find dozens of small towns whose waterfront seafood dining offerrings far exceed those in Hampton Roads.

In search of a restaurant that excels in this elusive category, the Tidewater Restaurant Critics recently visited Smithfield Station, located in the quaint downtown of Smithfield, Virginia.

Our hopes were high when our group was seated for dinner outside on Smithfield Station's waterfront deck. This place definitely checked our first box -- an absolutely stunning view of the Pagan River and marshes beyond. The restaurant is the centerpiece of a very unique river-port resort, which includes a marina, a boutique hotel and upscale retail shops. The covered outdoor deck overlooks the marina and offers a 180-degree view of the river. Downstream to the right is Gatling Pointe and the confluence with the James River. Upstream to the left is Smithfield's downtown historic district. Boats of all shapes and sizes come and go on the river-- from million-dollar yachts to ski boats to commercial fishing boats with their catch. The occassional kayaker and paddleboarder paddle by, adding to the leisurely aquatic ambiance.

There is also an indoor dining area with nautical décor, an Outer Banks vibe and a view of the water from every candlelit table. The separate bar – which bills itself as IBX Bar and Grille – offers a more festive atmosphere and is a popular after work happy hour spot.

If you're a boater, this place is one of the top "dock & dine" options around, having won the "Virginia is For Lovers" award in this category. If you’re looking for a special weekend getaway, one of the lodging options at the resort hotel on site is Virginia's only Lighthouse accomodation, an exact replica of a working Chesapeake Bay Lighthouse.

As I've mentioned in previous reviews, our group of eight critics are old friends who lack formal culinary education but are well-practiced foodies who spend a lot of time & money dining out. We're all in our 50s and our common link is that we're veterans ... of the baseball wars, that is. We got to know each other as teammates or opponents on the ballfields in high school and/or college and have managed to stay in touch as the decades have passed. Reviewing restaurants is a good excuse to get together about once a month.

Our server, Megan, was very patient as we pondered the drink menu and asked questions about the cocktails and craft beer offerings. To her credit, she did not flinch when we said the three words that every server hates to hear – separate checks please. There were some impressive signature cocktail options – the Pagan River Pain Killer and Station Break among them – as well as plenty of beer offerings from Virginia breweries.

This place mixes up one of the best Bloody Marys you’ll ever have; concocted with Abolut Peppar Vodka, Old Bay, a proprietary tomato-based mix and garnished with a jumbo shrimp. During the pandemic’s restaurant shutdown period this past spring , when Va’s Governor Coonman allowed takeout cocktails, The Station’s Bloody Marys to-go were a very popular offering from a tented booth outside the restaurant. It made the Covid crisis much more palatable for locals and tourists alike. My kind of community service, for sure.

We nursed our drinks and drafts – a sharp contrast from our younger days when we could outdrink an Irish rugby team – and began contemplating appetizers. Mark Bunn offered to order a couple dozen Oysters Rockefeller for the table and we jumped on the opportunity before he had a chance to change his mind. They were excellent, fresh Rappahanock River Oysters baked with bacon, spinach, cream, Pernod Abnsinthe and topped with Parmesan Cheese.

Two other appetizers we ordered turned out just as good. The Shrimp Hushpuppies were very unique; lightly fried cornmeal with bits of fresh gulf shrimp and jalapeno, served with a sweet honey butter. Crab Dip completed our app trio. True to its name, it had plenty of lump crabmeat, along with cream cheese and heavy cream. Kicking it up was red pepper, along with fresh-chopped spinach, sherry and parmesan.

Other appetizers that did not crack the lineup this particular night included Scallops wrapped in bacon, Boom Boom Shrimp (a take on the similarly named app at the popular chain seafood restaurant) and Atlantic Tuna Bites. Also worth mentioning are two award-winning soups on the menu – the Station Chowder, a Hatteras-style clear broth clam chowder, and Crab Soup, made with sweet backfin from local blue crabs.

The star of the dinner menu here is the seafood -- more about that in a moment -- but there are also great options for land-lovers, including a Cowboy Ribeye that is highly-regarded, Bourbon Chicken and Baby Back Ribs. In addition to that are over a dozen different sandwiches and burgers that are great for lunch or dinner, ranging from a Southern Fried Chicken Sandwich to Smoked Turkey to The Club Sub. The seafare in the sandwich category includes the Fried Flounder Sandwich, Crabcake Sandwich and Fish or Shrimp Tacos. There's also a half-dozen big salads, highlighted by the Salmon Caesar, that pair up great with an appetizer.

Some of the menu items feature pork -- ham, bacon or sausage -- a homage to Smithfield's number one export industry. Just down the Pagan River from the restaurant is the corporate headquarters of Smithfield Foods, a Fortune 500 company that is the largest pork producer in the world.

I'd be remiss if I didn't pause our review at this point for a quick international business lesson that might just spoil your appetite. Smithfield Foods, in case you missed it, sold out to the Chinese back in 2013. That's right, seven years ago, Chinese conglomerate Shanghui (now known as WH Group), controlled by China's communist government, purchased Smithfield Foods for $7.1 billion. The personal motivation for Smithfield Foods’ CEO at the time, Larry Pope (according to CNBC, Forbes and other media), was the $46.6 million he received in acquisition-related compensation. So what was previously the quintessential American company is now in bed with the same folks who brought us Coronavirus and Chinese Drywall. What could possibly go wrong there?

Back on a positive note, my entree, the Oscar Mahi Mahi, was outstanding. The Mahi, also known as dolphinfish or dorado, was ocean-to-table, freshly caught in the Atlantic and locally sourced. Culinary snobs will tell you that Pacific-caught Mahi is better, but I've tried it and prefer our Atlantic variety just fine, thank you very much. It was broiled, lightly seasoned and I found it to be perfect -- flaky, sweet and flavorful. The mahi was topped with grilled asparagus and a superb sauteed jumbo lump crab. Topping off the dish was a creamy bearnaise sauce, sort of a more affluent cousin of Hollandaise sauce, one of the five mother sauces in French haute cuisine. Some diners might find the bearnaise sauce to be a bit too rich -- I did on this particular night -- but that's nitpicking.

For his entree, Blair Wood opted to go with one of the Calabash seafood offerings, the Seafood Platter. Calabash-style seafood gets its name from the North Carolina fishing village known by some as the "Seafood Capitol of the World." The term Calabash describes a cooking style in which fresh seafood (fish, shrimp, scallops, oysters, etc) is coated in a light batter of finely ground corn and quick-fried. It is not as heavy or oily as other fried seafood. Calabash-style seafood is very popular at Myrtle Beach-area restaurants, but most of them bastardize the style with heavy breading and deep frying. So if you think you've had it on South Carolina's Grand Strand, think again. Blair's Calabash Seafood Platter consisted of scallops, shrimp, a crabcake and a flounder filet. He said it was great, the seafood was very fresh and it was as light of a frying style as he'd ever had.

Mark Bunn also had the Seafood Platter, choosing to have his broiled rather than fried. He said the scallops and shrimp and flounder were excellent, but fancying himself as a crabcake connisseur, hesitated to put the crabcakes in the excellent category. More about that in a bit.

Bryan Randolph Wood went the surf and turf route, ordering the Top Sirloin with Shrimp Scampi. Generally speaking, sirloin has a bit of a PR problem among steak lovers. It can be tough due to the fact that it is cut from the cow's hip region, an area that gets a lot of exercise and is naturally lean. But Top Sirloin (as opposed to just regular sirloin or bottom sirloin) is cut from the primal loin, just above the tenderloin. Bryan found his top sirloin -- a certified Hereford grass-fed cut -- to be both tender and flavorful. He ordered it medium rare and said it arrived perfect; seared on the outside with a warm red center. He said the Shrimp Scampi that accompanied the steak was also very good. While some chefs over-do the garlic in Scampi, he said his dish put the emphasis on the shrimp, with just the right blend of lemon, butter, garlic and pepper seasonings that accompanied it.

Mark Parnell had the Calabash Scallops and found them to be very good. As with all the Calabash dishes at The Station they were lightly fried and put the emphasis on the seafood, not the breading. According to our server, the scallops were river-to-table, harvested on the Rappahanock River. They were served with a side of hushpuppies which also got high marks from Nellie.

Stephen Noffsinger gave our only negative review of the night, giving the Calabash Shrimp a thumbs-down and leaving half of them on his plate. In all fairness to the chef, it was probably because Steve had just gone all Joey Chestnut on the appetizers. Steve's main complaint on the shrimp was "they're better when they're steamed," which begged the question: "Why didn't you order them steamed?" It's also worth noting that he asked for a to-go box for the leftover shrimp. He later said they made a good midnight snack with his boxed wine.

Damarris Yuille ordered the Crabcake platter and said they had very little filler and were magnificent. I told him we don't use the word magnificent in our reviews so he revised his comment to "sensational." He opted to have them fried (they're also available broiled) and like everyone, complemented the light Calabash style of frying. The Smithfield Station menu states that their crabcakes have been voted Chesapeake Bay Magazine's "Best of the Bay" for nine years running. Mark Bunn read this and accused The Station of election fraud and ballot-stuffing; which prompted a healthy debate about what Hampton Roads restaurant has the best crabcakes. There was no clear consensus. Bunn insisted it was Steinhilber's (in Va Beach), a restaurant he cannot afford or spell ... he kept calling it "Steinbrenner's."

Frank Brnich went with another one of the seafood specialties, The Norfolk Combo. He raved about it, a wonderfully simple dish of locally sourced blue crab, scallops and shrimp, sauteed in a white wine garlic sauce.

We violated a cardinal rule of restaurant reviewing by not leaving room for dessert, which was a shame because the strawberry cheesecake and pie ala mode, among other desserts, looked outstanding. Instead, we lingered at our table to savor one of the best waterfront sunsets you'll ever see, which was a perfect ending to a great dining experience.

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